NLEnrico Patist from De Prins in Rotterdam presents an ode to the pike perch that he combines with medlar, sauerkraut, and ceps.
Pike Perch or Zander
Pike perch is a freshwater fish that was formerly also called zander. This predatory fish belongs to the perch family and can be recognized by its two dorsal fins, one of which has hard, spiky rays. Originally, it comes from Central and Eastern Europe; through expansion it has spread and is also found in the Netherlands in the IJsselmeer, the bordering lakes, and the major rivers. It is fished by both professional and recreational fishermen. In April and May, pike perch spawns, and fishing is closed during that period.
At this moment, we supply fresh pike perch from the Dutch waters, available whole, very well scaled, stripped (without scales or innards) or as fillets, according to your preference. Additionally, especially during the spawning season, they are also available frozen.
Pike Perch in the Kitchen Pike perch has firm fish flesh, which makes it suitable for almost all preparations, such as frying, grilling, poaching, steaming, and cooking in a salt crust or puff pastry. In contrast to pike, pike perch does not contain large amounts of bones, which makes working with whole fish easier.
In France, you see pike perch more frequently on the menu than here, under the name “filet de sandre.” A classic preparation is quenelles of pike perch, where pureed pike perch (usually with flour, butter, egg, and cream) is shaped into quenelles, which, after poaching, are often served in a fish sauce. Closer to home, three-star chef Jonnie Boer has been preparing pike perch from the Vecht for years, glazed with apple syrup and served with a sauce made from riesling and chervil.
Enrico Patist from restaurant De Prins also glazes pike perch, but with medlar syrup. He shares his dish with us.
Enrico Patist, De Prins in Rotterdam
Enrico Patist (37 years old) has been working at restaurant De Prins in Rotterdam, also known as De Prins van Terbregge, since 2016. He began his career as a sous-chef and has been the head chef since October 2018. Enrico has a personal style that he describes as a bit headstrong, rebellious, and sometimes contrary to gastronomic rules, but always artisanal and based on a classic foundation.
His kitchen has international influences. He started his culinary career in Cajun cuisine, likes to be inspired by herbs and spices from around the world, and his Surinamese sous-chef brings Surinamese influences. Enrico uses vegetables in desserts, is an enthusiastic forager, and he enjoys combining lamb with couscous, ras el hanout, and hibiscus. Restaurant De Prins is also renowned for its wines; as many as 700 wines are served.
Pike perch is a fish that Enrico enjoys working with. Enrico: “It is a firm fish with a relatively neutral taste. Although it is available almost year-round, I mainly use it in autumn and winter because you can combine it with so many robust flavors. Pike perch also thrives in brackish water, and the beauty is that you can taste whether it was caught in a river or closer to the sea.
I have a great collaboration with the fish department of Driessen. They offer valuable input when I have an idea for a product, and the quality and service are excellent.”
Pike Perch with Medlar, Sauerkraut Mash, Cèpes and Mustard Seed
In this dish, Enrico combines pike perch with the flavors of autumn and winter. Pike perch fillet is fried on the skin and glazed with medlar syrup, then finished under the salamander. Afterwards, a sprinkle of Trappeur-mélange (a Canadian blend of salt and maple sugar) is added. On the plate, there is a small sauerkraut mash, onto which the fish is placed.
The plate is further garnished with sautéed cèpes, mustard seeds, cèpes powder, and some veal jus.
The finishing touch is a few drops of oil from Cecina de Léon (smoked and dried beef from the hind leg of Rubia Gallega cattle from the Spanish region Castilla y Léon).
