NLPatrick Hooijschuur from Buitenplaats Slangevegt presents an ode to the plaice.
Buitenplaats Slangevegt is the ideal meeting place in Breukelen where you can enjoy lunch, drinks, and dinner by the water in style. The restaurant is located along the calm, old-Dutch river Vecht and has been housed for many years in the Rijksmonument from 1700, which owes its name to its location – namely, the winding river that slithers through the landscape like a snake.
A classic menu is offered with modern influences, allowing guests to choose between the à la carte menu or the contemporary chef’s menu prepared by the team of head chef Patrick Hooijschuur (36).
He has been the head chef for 6 years, and together with his entire team, they continuously work on developing Slangevegt, bringing the restaurant to its current stature. A classic restaurant with a modern twist, where they ensure guests have a delightful experience both in terms of cuisine and atmosphere. Along the water, guests experience a Mediterranean holiday feeling, and despite the corona measures, both the terrace and indoor areas are warm and inviting.
Patrick describes his style as follows: “I enjoy creating combinations in my dishes with meat and fish. Those flavors enhance each other and create a beautiful presentation. Of course, it is not always possible. Here we prepare dishes of Dutch, Mediterranean, or Eastern origin, in which you recognize my classic foundation, but always with a modern twist. I like to keep up with the times. In addition, I work with pure flavors and take the seasons into account.”
Corona Adjustments
The great adaptability is also evident in the way the team handles anticipating the COVID-19 measures. “In June, we started with an early and a late shift for dinner, but in practice it turned out that with a fixed start time, the kitchen was idle for a while. Therefore, we chose to spread out the shifts so that the kitchen team remains continuously active. We can now serve about 70–80 guests simultaneously instead of 120, but with the distribution throughout the evening, we come close to the old numbers. It just requires more time and effort from our entire team to ensure everything runs smoothly.”
The Plaice
We are in the midst of the plaice season, and this is evident in its quality. They are nicely thick and very flavorful.
The Pleuronectes platessa comes from the North Sea and is characterized by eyes that sit on top of the head, a brown/green upper side with orange spots, and a white underside. The more vivid the orange spots, the healthier the fish. Plaice is a flatfish, meaning it lives on the seabed and feeds on small bottom-dwelling fish and small crustaceans.
Easy Fish in the Kitchen
Plaice is a versatile fish with a neutral flavor. You can stew or poach the fish, but it is best known when fried to a crisp. The breaded, fried plaice fillets – better known as “lekkerbekjes” – are recommended for the novice fish eater.
Patrick explains: “I have been working with Driessen Food for years, in close consultation. Usually, I first think about the new menu myself and then contact the various fresh specialists. We discuss the possibilities and brainstorm which ingredients best suit a particular preparation. This is how I eventually arrive at the new menu.”
Patrick typically starts working with plaice from May and notices that they are now optimal in flavor and fullness. He uses plaice that has been cleaned and halved by the fresh specialists at Driessen Food, so that the bone remains in the middle, allowing you to fry it on the bone effectively. By allowing the proteins to coagulate slowly from the outside in, the fish retains its juiciness.
Pearl on the Vecht
In this dish, Patrick chooses to combine a varied palette of flavors and textures into one harmonious whole, optimally stimulating the guests’ senses.
The plaice is baked on the bone in beurre noisette, which imparts a slightly nutty flavor to the fish while making it wonderfully crispy and brown. The lobster is cooked sous vide with orange and butter, providing a fresh accent.
Square cubes of blood sausage are fried to a crisp on a baking sheet, adding a savory element to the dish. Simultaneously, grapefruit segments are dipped in a batter and fried into beignets, providing a crispy bite with bitter notes.
Romanesco is prepared in two ways. The florets are, like the lamb ear and some samphire, briefly blanched to retain their fresh green color, and a smooth cream is made from romanesco.
Finally, the chopped smoked almonds are warmed in the beurre noisette. Now everything is ready to plate the dish.
Here, Patrick’s contemporary approach is evident once again. The modern twist is reflected in the plate presentation: a beautiful, curving line featuring alternating pieces of blood sausage, romanesco florets, lobster, beignets, and romanesco cream. On top, the lamb ear and samphire are neatly arranged. The plaice is elegantly placed beside them, and finally, the jus of beurre noisette with smoked almonds is delicately drizzled over the dish.
A delicious pearl on the Vecht.
