Van het seizoen: Ode to the koolvis

14-03-2019

Robert Hartelman from restaurant Cèpes in Otterlo presents an ode to the koolvis, which he combines with Dutch shrimp, anchovy, and vegetables.

Koolvis: Delicious and Affordable

Koolvis has a somewhat dull reputation, but that is undeserved. With this fish – which is related to cod (encompassing whiting and flounder as well) and is found in the Atlantic Ocean – you present your guest with a flavorful and affordable fish dish. There are 2 types: black and white koolvis. We sell the white (pollack) frozen; for more gastronomic use, there is the fresh black koolvis, recognizable by its brown/dark gray back. Both the white and the black types are MSC-certified.

Koolvis in the Kitchen

Koolvis contains little fat and is a good source of Omega-3 fatty acids. Its flavor is mild, which makes it accessible and quickly appealing to the guest. The fish flesh of the black koolvis has a somewhat coarser texture and is a bit drier and softer than that of cod. Like cod, it lends itself to almost all methods of preparation—from stewing to frying, steaming, roasting, and deep-frying.

Robert Hartelman, restaurant Cèpes, Otterlo

At hotel De Sterrenberg in Otterlo, chef Robert Hartelman (32 years old) takes charge of restaurant Cèpes and everything food-related in the hotel. He previously worked at, among others, Hotel de Wereld in Wageningen, Villa Copera in Tolkamer, and De Beukenhorst in Winterswijk. At Cèpes – which has been awarded a Bib Gourmand by Michelin – Robert cooks with his brigade in tune with the seasons and using many regional (Veluwe) products. In addition to restaurant Cèpes, De Sterrenberg – which was renovated two years ago into a beautiful and comfortable four-star hotel – has 44 hotel rooms, conference rooms, and a wellness center.

More with Koolvis

Robert loves working with koolvis. “It is so easy to work with luxurious products like turbot, but it is exactly a challenge to create a delicious dish with less obvious fish varieties. Chefs should step away from the well-trodden paths and work more with fish such as koolvis. In addition to a warm preparation, koolvis also lends itself well to raw processing, or marinating in sweet and sour, à la ceviche, so you get a refreshingly tasty dish. For warm preparations, I prefer steaming, poaching, or breading and deep-frying.”

High Level of Service

Robert has been a customer of Driessen for five years and is very pleased with the service. “In a larger company like ours it is great that Driessen can deliver all fresh products on a daily basis. I’m always called by the people from the fish and meat department to discuss what is needed and what is affordable at that moment, and the account manager visits every month. Driessen is flexible, customer-oriented, and collaborates with you, and that is exactly what you need as a chef.”

Koolvis, Dutch Shrimp, Potato Salad, Anchovy Vinaigrette

Robert inspires us with a roulade of black koolvis, combining potato salad, Dutch shrimp, dill cream, and flavors of anchovy that lend a certain heartiness to the dish.
Koolvis fillet is tied into a roulade that is steamed at a low temperature in the oven. The plate is further garnished with potato cubes, Dutch shrimp, and dollops of dill cream. The vegetable garnish is adapted to the season and may include, for example, (head) lettuce, land cress, watercress, carrot ribbons, and a brunoise of sweet and sour cucumber. The dish is finished with an anchovy vinaigrette, anchovy powder, and a crisp rice paper element.