Skate in the Kitchen The skate is caught, among other places, in the North Sea as bycatch from fisheries for flounder and plaice. This cartilaginous fish is available year-round and contains no bones, which makes it easy to process. Skate must be absolutely fresh; less fresh skate releases ammonia. In the kitchen, we mostly use the wings of the fish. A skate wing has light pink, somewhat creamy flesh with a firm texture that turns white when heated. A classic skate dish is prepared with either beurre noisette or beurre blanc with capers and parsley potatoes. Skate pairs well with Dutch shrimp, and the small, round cheeks, when fried, are absolutely delicious. Due to the relatively large surface area of the wing, skate lends itself well to stuffing.
Richard Boys, restaurant Zuiver, Utrecht The 49-year-old Richard Boys is the chef at restaurant Zuiver in Utrecht. This versatile establishment combines a thriving restaurant with spaces for parties and private dining, and excels at delivering quality to larger groups. The cooking style is international, and the chefs use pure, fresh seasonal products. After working at Huize van Wely, as a sous-chef at the Mariënhof in Amersfoort, and at De Vier Balken in Haarzuilens, Richard has now been with Zuiver for 9 years. With an Indonesian wife, he frequently visits Indonesia, which serves as a culinary inspiration for him; its flavors and cooking techniques are regularly reflected in his kitchen.
Grilling Skate Richard: “Skate is a flavorful fish that lends itself well to grilling. I like to combine it with anchovies and capers or with coconut, which I transform into a delicious crust on the fish. It also tastes great with Mediterranean vegetables. I roast vegetables in the oven and then place the skate in the vegetable juices released after roasting, which gives the fish a beautiful flavor.”
Bycatch Because skate is bycatch, its supply is irregular. At Zuiver, it is therefore offered as a daily special. Richard: “Working with Driessen is very pleasant. If I order 150 items at 11:00 PM, they’re in my kitchen by 9:00 AM the next morning, and nothing is missing. A few times a year, we take our students to the fish department at Driessen and attend their open days. Because of this, we have a partner in Driessen who does more than just deliver.”
Skate Wing with Chili Pepper For us, Richard creates an exciting dish in which he combines skate with Asian flavors and a touch of Holland. The skate wing is grilled together with fresh chili pepper. Kale is stewed with coconut and lemongrass, and the skate cheek is prepared as tempura. By frying the skate’s cartilage until crispy, you can create a crunchy element that is sprinkled over the skate. The dish is served with pak choi, bean sprouts, stir-fried yardlong beans, lotus root chips, and yellow coconut rice.