NLBas Hoog from Glaswerk in The Hague presents an ode to the skrei which he combines with green cabbage, salsify, and herring caviar.
Skrei, the winter cod
Skrei is a type of cod that, after spawning, is caught under the polar ice on its return journey near the Norwegian Lofoten. The journey that the skrei – also called winter cod – undertakes is an age-old, annual natural wonder. The season starts with the first full moon in January, and the supply usually kicks in around the second or third week of January.
Line-caught and MSC
Skrei is exclusively line-caught and can be targeted without endangering the future population because the fish that have released their roe swim at a different depth than those that still need to spawn. The catch is strictly regulated by the Norwegian government and is, as a result, MSC-certified. As a type of cod, skrei features beautifully white, firm flesh and is suitable for almost every cooking method—from stewing to baking, steaming, grilling, drying, smoking, and frying.
Bas Hoog, restaurant & wine bar Glaswerk, The Hague
Bas Hoog (34) previously worked at Michelin-starred restaurants Seinpost in Scheveningen, Imko Binnerts and Niven in Rijswijk, Fred in Rotterdam, and at the pop-up restaurant of Experiment in Delft before he started as chef at Glaswerk in The Hague in the summer of 2018. Glaswerk is a restaurant and wine bar. In addition to the drinks menu, Bas offers a small à la carte menu and a creative menu that changes very frequently.
Firm Fish Flesh
In winter, Bas loves working with skrei; as soon as the first supply arrives, skrei is incorporated into the menu. Bas Hoog: “Every year I come up with a new dish with skrei. The loin fillet is my favorite part. The fish flesh is wonderfully firm and very versatile in terms of preparation. Nearly all sauces and garnishes go well with skrei, and even combinations with, for example, blood sausage, lardo, and poached oyster can be done effortlessly. And because the flavor is approachable, guests often find skrei very tasty.” 
Great Partner to Work With
Glaswerk sources many fresh products from Driessen. Bas: “My account manager, Jeroen van der Veen, is always there for us. Sometimes I spot a special product that isn’t in their assortment and then it gets ordered for me. Their service is exceptional, and that makes Driessen a great partner to work with.”
Skrei, Potato and Dashi Sauce with Taco of Green Cabbage and Salsify
Bas creates a dish for us featuring skrei, katsuobushi (bonito flakes), and salsify chips with a potato and dashi sauce, accompanied by a taco made of green cabbage filled with salsify and topped with some smoked herring caviar. The smokiness of the herring caviar, the earthiness of the vegetable, and the umami of the katsuobushi and the dashi greatly enhance the flavor of the skrei.
The skrei is first brined—a method Bas often uses with fish because it strengthens the structure of the flesh and allows the fish to be preserved a bit longer. After brining, the skrei is steamed. The sauce consists of a beurre blanc to which a little less gastrique has been added, along with some dashi broth. Finally, dry potato puree—passed through a fine sieve—is stirred into the sauce. The fish is finished with katsuobushi and salsify chips.
For the taco of green cabbage, the leaves are blanched and pressed flat between a tortilla press so that they become nicely flat and easy to fold. This method also preserves the leaf’s bite. Strips of salsify are braised with milk and cream and placed into the green cabbage leaf. On top of the folded leaf, smoked herring caviar is added.
