NLRens Groters from Metro City Kitchen in Utrecht presents an ode to the sea bass which he combines with sweet potato and Buddha’s Hand.
Sea Bass in the Kitchen
Sea bass occurs in both freshwater and saltwater and is available in both farmed and wild variants. In either case, the fish has a fine texture with relatively few bones and its flavor is delicate and slightly sweet. Sea bass can be prepared in many ways: frying, stewing, steaming—it seamlessly adapts to the kitchen. It is often served raw, as tartare or as ceviche. Purchase the fish with skin intact, as it preserves the juices during hot cooking and fries up nicely crisp. As an all-rounder, sea bass combines well with (Mediterranean) vegetables, various types of potatoes, a good sauce, and acidic elements.
Rens Groters, Metro City Kitchen, Utrecht
Rens Groters (30 years old) is chef at Metro City Kitchen in Utrecht, which opened in 2018 at the Jaarbeursplein. The establishment consists of two concepts: in the Downtown Deli you can enjoy a casual breakfast, lunch, drinks, and dinner, while a more extensive 4- to 6-course dining experience is offered in the Uptown Dining area. With around 120 covers in the Downtown Deli and about 70 in the Uptown Dining, Rens and his team have plenty to cook throughout the day.
Sea Bass Combines Well
Rens: “Every 6 weeks we renew our menu, and for that I always call the specialists at Driessen Food to discuss which products are in season and affordable. For fish, I speak with Eric Koelewijn—a true craftsman. I have been working with Driessen Food as a fresh supplier for at least 8 years and I’m very pleased with it. I love working with wild sea bass. With its slightly fatty flavor, it pairs very well with other ingredients. The combination of sea bass tartare with Jamaican pepper is one of my personal favorites.” 
Sea Bass with Sweet Potato, Avocado and Buddha’s Hand
A favorite dish on the Metro City Kitchen menu is raw sea bass with sweet potato, avocado, and Buddha’s Hand. Rens: “This dish has a fine combination of sweet, fatty, acidic, and crispy. We finely slice the raw sea bass and dress it with some pepper, salt, and olive oil. The bulgur is boiled and prepared with a vichyssoise. We roast the sweet potato in the oven and then blend it in the thermoblender, finishing it with pepper, salt, and xanthan. We also blend the avocado. For the squid ink mayonnaise, we make a mayonnaise with squid ink. The spicy accent in this dish comes from freshly grated horseradish, which we stir into yogurt that we have drained for 24 hours. For the crispy element, we make filo pastry with green herbs, which we cut out and incorporate in layers into the dish. The dish is finished with purple violets. As a finishing touch, we shave some Buddha’s Hand over the dish at the table. Guests are surprised by the unique shape of the “hand” and by the delightful citrus aroma.”
