Van het seizoen: Ode to the Monkfish

09-10-2018

Terry Priem from Restaurant Allure in Rotterdam presents an ode to monkfish, which he combines with salsify.

Monkfish: Prehistoric Appearance

With its somewhat monstrous, prehistoric appearance and a head larger than its body, monkfish is a striking fish. We know monkfish, which is found in the northern waters of the Atlantic Ocean and in the Mediterranean Sea, also as lotte or monkfish. This predatory fish spawns in April and May and is therefore best purchased from June through March.

Monkfish in the Kitchen

After removing the skin and membrane, monkfish provides beautiful, white, firm tail meat. Thanks to this firmness, you can steam, fry, grill, and barbecue monkfish without the flesh falling apart. Another advantage: monkfish has no bones. If you take the effort to purchase a whole fish with its head intact, you also get the flavorful cheeks that can be beautifully braised. The large liver, which is always sold separately, is well suited for frying, and from the cartilage—which gels very well—you can create a wonderful broth.

Terry Priem, Restaurant Allure, Rotterdam


Chef Terry Priem has been co-owner, together with business partner and host Brian Bennink, of Restaurant Allure in Rotterdam since 2011. Bold dishes with a mix of classical and global influences emerge from the kitchen. With its location at the Entrepothaven on the Kop van Zuid in Rotterdam, it is no wonder that Terry loves to cook with fish. One of his signature dishes is gently cooked salmon with curry ice cream, sesame vinaigrette, and wasabi crumble.

Monkfish Adds Value

Monkfish is also a beloved fish. Terry: “Due to its firmness and juiciness, it is a wonderful fish to work with. It has a full, earthy flavor that allows you to combine deep, autumnal flavors very well. Consequently, monkfish is also delicious when combined with meats such as pancetta and Ibérico ham. And because of its spineless backbone, it is very easy to debone. Monkfish is somewhat more expensive, but ultimately it adds much more value to the dish. Besides fish, I also purchase meat and vegetables from Driessen. The benefit of having a total fresh supplier is that I receive a large part of my kitchen stock with one order through inONE.”

Monkfish with Salsify

For Driessen, Terry has created a stunning autumn dish featuring monkfish and salsify prepared in three ways. The salsify is classically boiled in milk, then smoked and seared with a blowtorch. The result is a decorative, “twig-like” effect. The other two preparations are salsify chips and salsify cream. On the fried monkfish, a touch of pancetta, smoked eel, and fried Pied de Moutons is added. The dish is finished with, among other things, sea kale, borage, and marigold. Some quenelles of potato mousseline and eel foam complete the dish.